Hello, everyone! Today I finally share with you the written version of my Strawberry Milk Box Bag Crochet Pattern which has been long overdue and much requested. But before we dive in, I’d like to share the story behind this bag.
This bag design holds a special place in my heart. I began creating it during a time when my beloved cat, Ayana, was still with me, but tragically, she passed away before I could finish. As I worked on the bag, I couldn’t help but associate it with her final days, and I found it difficult to continue. It remained untouched in the corner of my studio for months.
However, as time went on and I began to heal, I felt a strong urge to return to this pattern. Completing it became a way for me to honor her memory, as it was the last design she saw me working on (and often interrupting me to ask for pets and cuddles, of course!) before she left this world. With love and dedication, I completed the bag as a tribute to her.
I hope this design resonates with you as much as it does with me, and that it serves as a reminder of the special bond we share with our furry companions, who often inspire us in so many ways. Thank you for reading me, and now let’s begin to crochet!
Material – Strawberry Milk Box Bag Crochet Pattern :
- 2,5 mm and 6 mm Crochet hooks
- Pink Cotton Yarn Worsted – Aran
- White velvet yarn
- Amigurumi yarns : red, green and yellow
- A piece of a thick cardboard or plastic canva (12,5 cm x 12,5 cm; thickness: 0,5 cm)
- Two D-rings
- A chain strap
- A magnetic button for bags
Abbreviations
ch: chain
sc: single crochet
sl st: slip stitch
hdc: half double crochet
dc: double crochet
inc: increase
dec: decrease
BLO: back loops only of the stitches
R: round / row
Notes :
Every rounds ends with a sl st in the 1st sc of the round. If you find any parts challenging to understand, that’s completely normal! The tutorial provides visual guidance to help you, so feel free to refer back to it whenever you need clarification.
Full Video Tutorial
The Strawberry Milk Box Bag Crochet Pattern :
With the 5mm crochet hook and the cotton yarn : make a magic circle
Round 1 : 4 sc, sl st in the 1st sc of the round at the end (4)
Round 2 : ( 3 sc in the same stitch ) x4 (12)
R3 : 1 sc, (3 sc next st itch), [ 2 sc, (3 sc next stitch) ] x3, 1 sc (20)
R4 : 2 sc, ( 3 sc next stitch), [ 4 sc, (3 sc next stitch) ] x3, 2 sc (28)
R5 : 3 sc, ( 3 sc next stitch), [ 6 sc, (3 sc next stitch) ] x3 , 3 sc (36)
R6 : 4 sc, ( 3 sc next st), [ 8 sc, (3 sc next st)] x3, 4 sc (44)
R7 : 5 sc, ( 3 sc next st), [ 10 sc, (3 sc next st)] x3, 5 sc (52)
R8 : 6 sc, ( 3 sc next st), [ 12 sc, (3 sc next st)] x3, 6 sc (60)
R9 : 7 sc, ( 3 sc next st), [ 14 sc, (3 sc next st)] x3, 7 sc (68)
R10 : 8 sc, ( 3 sc next st), [ 16 sc, (3 sc next st)] x3, 8 sc (76)
After completing round 10, you will have a large square measuring approximately 13×13 cm, though it may be slightly smaller.
Create two squares using this method. For the first square, cut the yarn and weave in the ends after finishing round 10. For the second square, continue working additional rounds without cutting the yarn.
Now back to 2nd square, continue as follow:
R11 : 76 sc BLO (76)
R12 to 13 : 76 sc (76)
After completing the 13th round, we’ll reinforce the bottom of the bag to keep it sturdy and prevent it from sagging. You can either use a 12.5×12.5 cm piece of cardboard or opt for plastic canvas for a more durable and washable option. You may want to round off the corners for a smoother appearance from the outside.
Next, take the first square you made — this will serve as a lining to hide the cardboard (or plastic canvas) and keep it securely in place. We’ll proceed to crochet the next round by working through the back loops of the first square and the corresponding stitches from round 13 of the bag. (see tutorial at 17:26)
R14: 76 sc (76)
Work through the stitches of round 13 and the back loops of the stitches from the square. This will secure the cardboard inside the bottom of the bag, keeping it hidden and firmly in place.
R15 to 39 : 76 sc (76) (a total of 25 rounds)
In the last round make an invisible join to finish the round and weave in the ends.
Split the square of the bag in 4 parts this way : 20 stitches, 18 stitches, 20 stitches, 18 stitches. (see at 20:47) To do so, proceed as follow:
Count 5 stitches after your invisible join stitch (included), mark the 5th stitch.
Starting the marked stitch, count 20 stitches. Mark the 20th stitch.
Starting the stitch after the marked one, count 18 stitches. Mark the 19th stitch.
Starting the marked stitch, count 20 stitches. Mark the 20th stitch.
Starting the stitch after the marked one, count 18 stitches. You will found your first marked stitch at the 19 th stitch after.
Row 1 : Join yarn with a sc in the 1st marked stitch:
sc until the next marked stitch (so you should have a total of 20 sc at the end of the row)
Row 2 to 10 : ch 1 then turn, 20 sc (20)
After your 10 rows, cut yarn and fasten off.
Next, move to the opposite side, where you also have 20 stitches. Repeat the same process: crochet 10 rows of 20 sc, starting from the first marked stitch.
After completing the 10 rows, cut the yarn and fasten off. You now have the front and back panels of the bag finished. These are the sections where we’ll later attach the magnetic buttons to close the bag.
We will now proceed with the 2 sides of 18 stitches.
Row 1: Take one of the side with the 18 stitches, join yarn in the 1st free stitches and make 18 sc (18)
Row 2 to 7: ch1 then turn, 18 sc (18)
Repeat the same exact thing in the other side of the bag with 7 rows of 18 sc. Cut yarn and fasten off at the end of your 7 rows.
Now that you have each sides of the top of the bag made, we will sew the corners sides together.
Place the corner sides like i’m showing in the tutorial (at 31:52) and with a sewing needle, sew them together starting from the smaller side.
Sew the 4 corners this way.
Sew the corners on each sides of the bag.
When you’re done sewing the corners, pinch the smaller side to the longer one, then sew 3 stitches (see tutorial at 33:52).
Sew the 4 corners this way.
When you’re done with the sewing part, we will leave the bag for now and crochet our milk part.
The Dripping Milk – Strawberry Milk Box Bag Crochet Pattern
We will crochet 2 pieces of this milk part the same way, one for the front and one of the back of the bag.
With your velvet white yarn and 6 mm hook, ch 14.
Row 1 : starting the 2nd loop from the hook make 13 sc in the behind loop of the stitches to get a sturdy chain base (13)
Row 2 to 15 : ch 1 then turn, 13 sc (13)
R16 : ch 1 then turn, sl st in the 1st stitch of the row
– ch 5, starting from the 2nd loop from the hook make 4 dc
– sl st in the next 2 stitches of the row
– ch 7, starting from the 2nd loop from the hook make 6 dc
– sl st in the next 2 stitches of the row
– ch 5, starting from the 2nd loop from the hook make 4 dc
– sl st in the next 2 stitches of the row
– ch 8, starting from the 2nd loop from the hook make 7 dc
– sl st in the next 2 stitches of the row
– ch 2, starting from the 2nd loop from the hook make 1 dc
– 1 sl st in the next stitch
– ch 4, starting from the 2 nd loop from the hook make 3 dc Sl st in the last stitch of the row, then cut yarn and fasten off.
Make 2 milk parts this same way.
Position the bag so that the first 6 rows of the milk part are inside, while the remaining rows stay on the outside. Attach the magnetic buttons (inside) to both the front and back panels (on the milk parts), ensuring they align properly for closing. For more guidance, watch the tutorial video at 46:15.
Glue or sew the milk onto the bag, ensuring the buttons are fully concealed on the outside. Repeat the same process on the opposite side of the bag.
After gluing the two milk pieces to the front and back of the bag, we’ll create small pieces (as shown in the video tutorial at 47:56) to sew onto the sides, completing the top of the bag.
Ch 4, 3 hdc. Cut yarn and leave a long tail for sewing.
Make 4 of them, and sew them on the top sides of the bag.
Take a piece of yarn and sew it along the edges of the milk sections to create a smooth finish and define the lines (see 49:56). Repeat this for all four edges (front and back of the bag).
Weave in all ends when you’re done.
Now, open your bag and pinch the left and right sides in the middle (see 51:29). Sew a small section where you’ve pinched to create a crease. This will help give the bag a more structured shape and enhance its overall appearance, as demonstrated in the video.
Weave in the ends when you’re done.
The milk box cap
Make a magic circle.
Round 1 : 6 sc (6)
Round 2 : sc inc x 6 (12)
R3 : 12 sc BLO (12)
R4 : 12 sc (12)
Then sew it on the top front of the bag. You may fill the inside with some polyester fiber.
The bands for the D-rings
Ch 9
Row 1 : starting 2nd loop from the hook make 8 sc (8)
Row 2 to 3 : ch 1 then turn, 8 sc (8)
Make 2 of them. Slide the band inside the D-ring and sew the bottom.
Then sew each of them on the side of the bag, just under the 1st row of our previous 18 sc, the top of the band must stop at the beginning of the 1st row.
The strawberries – Strawberry Milk Box Bag Crochet Pattern
With the red amigurumi yarn and your 2,5mm hook.
Ch 3
Row 1 : starting the 2nd loop from the hook : 2 hdc (2)
Row 2 : hdc inc x2 (4)
R3 : hdc inc , 2 hdc , hdc inc (6)
R4 : 1 hdc, hdc inc, 2 hdc, hdc inc, 1 hdc (8)
R5 : 2 hdc, hdc inc, 2 hdc, hdc inc, 2 hdc (10)
R6 to 9 : 10 hdc (10)
R10 : hdc dec, 6 hdc, hdc dec (8)
R11 : hdc dec, 4 hdc, hdc dec (6)
Ch 1, we will now work the edge around the strawberry.
Ch 1 at the end of the row 11, then sc around the edge of the strawberry.
Don’t worry if your strawberry starts to curve, that’s what we want to achieve.
When you reach the 2 stitches of row 1, make 1 sc in the 1st stitch, then ch 1, then sc in the 2nd stitch to create a pointed tip at the end of the strawberry. This technique adds a nice detail to the shape.
Continue to sc around the other side until you reach row 11 again.
When you reach the beginning of row 11: ch1, then sc dec in the 1st two stitches of row 11, 2sc, sc dec again. Then cut the yarn leaving a long tail for sewing, and fasten off with and invisible join.
The strawberry’s calyx
Now take your green amigurumi yarn and 2,5 mm hook. Make a magic circle.
Round 1 : 5 sc, sl st in the 1st sc at the end (5)
Round 2 : sl st in the 1st free stitch, (ch 4, starting the 2nd loop from the hook: 1 sc, 2 hdc, sl st in the next stitch) x 4
Now go through the middle hole of the magic circle and pull up a loop through it, then make a slip stitch, keep your yarn tight so it won’t be loose and ch 4.
Starting the 2nd loop from the hook : 1sc, 2 hdc
Cut yarn, fasten off and with a sewing needle go through the middle hole again then weave in the ends.
Sew the calyx on top of the strawberry.
Sew some little lines with the yellow yarn on the strawberry.
Make a total of 8 strawberries this way.
You can either place some polyester fiber under the strawberry for stuffing it before sewing or leave it as is. Sew them on the front, back and sides of the bag. Once you’ve finished sewing, simply attach your chain strap to the D-rings, and your strawberry milk box bag is complete!
I want to thank my sister for writing down the pattern from my video tutorial! Many of you have asked for a written version, and I wanted to grant that wish. Now I can share it on my website, thanks to her help. If you appreciate her effort, please leave a thank you in the comments — she’ll be reading them! Stay tuned for more exciting and unique patterns! Until next time, happy crocheting!
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